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The region of Beaujolais stretches along the ����ô�Ա� River from the southern tip of Burgundy to Lyon, the city considered by many to be the gastronomic heart of France.

Jacquet explained that, during the 14th and 15th centuries, the city began to densify, and buildings began to multiply, particularly in the Vieux Lyon neighborhood, which abuts the River ����ô�Ա�.

Because the structure of the district is largely made of long, parallel roads, the traboules allowed residents to access the River ����ô�Ա� more quickly and perpendicularly, essentially serving as a system to ease circulation.

Seven have already been seen, and another five had their premiere on Saturday at Les Subsistances, a cavernous cultural center on the banks of the ����ô�Ա� River.

The wine they remembered was necessarily light and lively, maybe 11 or 12 percent alcohol, Mr. Lynch suggested, to accompany the heavy, rich cuisine of Lyon, the city that legendarily is situated at the confluence of three rivers: the Rhône, the ����ô�Ա� and the Beaujolais.