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At the Clos De Bouard estate near Saint-Emilion, fully a third of sales are now of the chateau's two – soon to be three – non-alcoholic brands.

It will also trail along the famed red-wine vineyards of �������Գ�-É���������Dz� and white-wine vines of Chablis.

It’s a blend of 80 percent merlot and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon, so I wouldn’t call it a “baby �������Գ�-É���������Dz�” — that would imply cabernet franc — but the majority merlot gives it a plush Right Bank savor.

Here’s more proof: This wine is from Axelle and Pierre Courdurié, the owners of Château Croix de Labrie, which was elevated last year to �������Գ�-É���������Dz� Grand Cru Classé status.

The second may surprise you — a labor of love from a rising �������Գ�-É���������Dz� winery that shows Bordeaux can make deliciously sexy, unpretentious wine that doesn’t break the bank or require an investment in futures.