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Similarly, Alba white truffles fetch prices ten times higher than ��é�������ǰ��� black truffles, reaching up to 6,000 euros per kilogram.

The meal, served in 15 courses, is a symphony that builds, plate by smoke-kissed plate, to a crescendo: first the smoked goat butter with ��é�������ǰ��� truffle; then the salted, home-cured anchovies on grilled bread; then the beef chop with its crisp black sear and lustrous purple center; and finally a coda of smoky-milk ice cream with an infusion of sweet beets.

Georges Briguet, the bonhomous owner of Le ��é�������ǰ���, who greeted and seated guests by name nightly at that classic haute cuisine French restaurant in Manhattan for a half-century, died on July 26 in Montauk, N.Y.

“Le ��é�������ǰ��� is as lovingly assembled as a hand-stitched quilt and gets more comfortable with age.”

William Grimes of The Times stripped the restaurant of a star in 2000, complaining primarily about the staff, but he remained taken by the place, writing that whatever Le ��é�������ǰ���’s shortcomings, its clientele “can swaddle themselves in a quietly civilized atmosphere, a million miles removed from the tumult of the city outside.”