Comice

Use firm, slightly underripe Comice, Anjou, Bartlett or Russet pears.

With the most commonly grown varieties, such as Comice, Bosc and D’Anjou, the fruit will typically change from green to a slightly paler color.

My testers express a strong preference for smooth-fleshed varieties such as the buttery williams or comice, as opposed to the longer, grainier conference pear – the contrast in textures between fruit and sponge, slippery and fluffy, is simply more satisfying, though a grainier example wouldn’t be a deal-breaker for me.

That mix has attracted retirees on fixed incomes and farm workers who pick the sweet Comice pears from nearby orchards that end up in Harry & David gift baskets shipped around the world.

Their Hosui, Shinseiki and Shinko varietals are generally similar to the 20th Century — minimally tart, pleasantly sweet and as juicy as the best Comice pears, while being as crisp as the ideal Honeycrisp apple.