C.C.I.A.

“A frequent impediment to U.S. innovation is that incumbents too often protect their legacy business models rather than allowing the market to evolve in ways that help consumers,” said Ed Black, president of the C.C.I.A.

The counterfeit cloth can come from many parts of the world, but according to the C.C.I.A. and the Federal Trade Commission, the largest quantities are originating in Prato, Italy, a textile town near Florence.

In 1985 the C.C.I.A. claimed it found fake-cashmere coats mislabeled in Lord & Taylor, Jordan Marsh and Filene's department stores and filed a federal lawsuit that prompted the retailers to stop selling the line.

Since then major stores have generally cooperated with the C.C.I.A.