Capuana

Listen to any operatic recording or performance conducted by, for example, Francesco Molinari-Pradelli or Dmitri Mitropoulos, Karl Bohm or Franco Capuana.

Pass through the vast Aragonese city gates of Porta Capuana, now sitting alone in a square off Via Carbonara, and head into the pulsating heart of O’ Buvero street market.

The bitter lupins are almost, if not quite, the cheapest food that can be bought in Naples, and are accordingly sold principally to the very poor by the "lupinaria," who may be seen any day in the precinct of the Porta Capuana, or in the byways round about the Mercato.

In this region of the Porta Capuana one sees the people in what Charles Lamb would have called its quiddity.

High against the church towers the great archway of the Porta Capuana, a fit gateway for the approach of kings.